Chowder is great as comfort food

Question: What is the difference between soup and chowder?

Answer: Technically, a soup is any combination of meat, fish or vegetables in a broth. A chowder is a thick soup that usually contains seafood and potatoes as its primary ingredients (clam chowder is the most common), though the term is often used more loosely in describing any rich, chunky soup. The word "chowder" is derived from the French "chaudiere," the term for a caldron that fishermen traditionally used to make stews from the day's catch.

Few dishes are more comforting than a bowl of classic New England clam chowder. Purists argue about precisely how the soup should be prepared — some insist on salt pork instead of bacon, others want no seasonings but salt and pepper. The following recipe takes some liberties with flavorings, but I think you'll find the result to be hearty and delicious.

NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER

(Serves 6 to 8)

6 strips bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 celery stalks, strings removed, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup very small pearl onions, peeled

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups unsalted clam juice

4 small Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 bay leaves

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

5 large sprigs fresh thyme

8 pounds quahog clams, shucked, liquid reserved and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (2 pounds shucked clams)

1 1/2 cups fresh yellow-corn kernels (2 ears)

2 1/2 cups milk

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sherry (optional)

1. In a stockpot, cook the bacon until crisp. Drain on a paper towel and crumble. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat. Add celery and onions and saute, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 7 minutes.