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Staying places: Unique accommodations in northern Montana will have you saying 'thanks for the memories'

Published: Sunday, June 18, 2006 12:00 a.m. MDT
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GREAT FALLS, Mont. — There are places to stay and then there are places to stay.

On a driving trip across the plains of northern Montana, in the towns that dot the far-reaching horizons, we found accommodations that are hardly the cookie-cutter kind. They are so intriguing that we remembered them fondly long after we returned to the familiarity of our own bed.

To reach these accommodations, we followed roads less traveled. But, as Robert Frost once said, taking the road less traveled can make all the difference.

Virgelle Mercantile B&B

Description: This little outpost near the Missouri River is more than just a place to stay. It's a quirky combination of antiques store, adventure outfitter and bed and breakfast. The three elements combine to focus on the past. For accommodations, you have a choice between rooms in the Mercantile, which was built in 1912, or homesteader cabins out back that were brought in from Montana farms and ranches and restored. The main advantage of staying in a cabin is the front porch, where you can enjoy the view of the meadow and the Missouri River rippling by.

The food is hearty and delicious. When we stopped for lunch, we couldn't get enough of the curried chicken salad.

The river, however, is the marquee attraction. From the town of Fort Benton upstream from Virgelle to the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge downstream, the Missouri has a Wild and Scenic designation. It remains unspoiled and probably looks much like it did when explorers Lewis and Clark passed through 200 years ago. The Missouri River Canoe Company, the outfitting arm of the Virgelle Merc, takes advantage of its location along this stretch of river to offer guided canoe trips or supply independent groups.

Co-owner Don Sorensen grew up on a nearby farm. For him Virgelle is home. "I have fond memories of coming to the river from the farm, camping, fishing and recreating." Now he's helping visitors enjoy what the area offers. "I want to show other people what's outside our back door."

Getting to Virgelle is half the fun. The most interesting route involves crossing the Missouri River on the Virgelle Ferry. Ring a buzzer at river's edge and the ferry operator will meet you there. The service is free but you use it at your own risk. We suggest calling ahead for directions (406-378-3194), although signs have been improved since we were there, so you can probably find it on your own from U.S. 87. Hours of operation are limited: 7 a.m.-7 p.m., except Sundays, when the hours are 9 a.m.-5 p.m. It's closed in winter.

Location: 7485 Virgelle Ferry Road, northeast of Loma

Phone: 800-426-2926

Web: www.paddlemontana.com

Advice: Call for directions

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