9 great American cities at their best

What is a great city?

It's a city that, when you're in the heart of it, you know exactly where you are. New York is a great city. Boston is a great city. San Francisco is a great city. New Orleans is, still. We've chosen a few of America's best cities that are especially worthy of a trip and asked folks who know them — from bell captain to movie director — to make some recommendations. There are plenty of others. And we'll get to them. But first let us start with . . .

BOSTON

From Keith Lockhart, conductor, Boston Pops

The essential experience: A Pops concert. Of course. "Come join 'America's Orchestra' on the 4th of July if you want to hang out with half a million friends. A close second would be taking in a game at Fenway . . . the way baseball should be. Like Chicagoans, we take our baseball seriously!"

But don't miss: "Boston's old neighborhoods, like Beacon Hill, or stroll down in the Harbor district, check out the aquarium and watch the boats come in."

Local delicacy: "I'm not much into baked beans or cod, so I guess I would have to choose the noble lobster. A close second: a great plate of pasta in a cozy North End restaurant."

Best big-bucks restaurant: "L'Espalier in Back Bay is certainly the place one thinks of . . . but my favorite is probably Barbara Lynch's spectacular No. 9 Park Street, in Beacon Hill."

Iconic neighborhood favorite: Beacon Hill is "a great place to stroll at twilight and then hole up for a cozy bite in either the Beacon Hill Bistro or the wonderful Lala Rokh, a warm and friendly (Persian) establishment that is probably the best ethnic restaurant in Boston."

The perfect Boston walk: "Walking along the Esplanade (where the Pops plays on the 4th) is gorgeous (with the) sun setting over the Charles, sailboats and seagulls, and you can go for miles. Make a loop through Beacon Hill, back through the Public Garden. Boston is a big small town, and it's all right there at your feet."

Info: Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau, 888-SEE BOSTON; www.bostonusa.com

CHICAGO

From Alan Solomon, Chicago Tribune travel writer