From Deseret News archives:

Climb of Delicate Arch kicks up debate

Park officials mull legality; climbers disagree on issue

Published: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:20 a.m. MDT
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In the predawn hours last Sunday, Dean Potter, a part-time Moab resident and world-class climber, scaled Delicate Arch in Arches National Park near Moab.

The legality of climbing Utah's most recognized icon is currently being looked at by park officials. The appropriateness of such a climb is being fiercely debated by both climbers and non-climbers.

Park climbing regulations clearly state: Climbing is prohibited on any arch identified on current USGS 7.5 minute topographical maps. Delicate Arch is among those identified on the map.

Several climbers in Moab said the rules governing climbing in Arches are well known and respected by most climbers.

Eric Bjornstad of Moab, himself a world-class climber and author of several books on climbing in and around Moab, and considered by many to be one of the true patriarchs of "free solo" climbing, called Potter's climb "unfortunate."

"He shouldn't have climbed it illegally. Sadly, it gives climbing a bad name," he added.

The gray area in the regulations appears to be that some sites are listed and come with closure dates. Delicate Arch isn't listed.

Laura Joss, park superintendent, said the compendium may have been clear, but it may not have been specific enough.

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"We rewrote the compendium to make sure people know it's closed," she explained.

The new regulations went into effect Tuesday and clearly state that climbing on named bridges and arches is prohibited.

It also addresses "slacklining" in Arches, which is a type of tight-rope walking.

This regulation reads: Slacklining is defined as walking on a rope or other line that is anchored between rock formations, trees, or any other natural features. Height of the rope above the ground is immaterial.

Back in September, Potter and two companions came to the attention of park officials for stringing two ropes between the Three Gossips, another popular formation within the park. The three left their ropes tied to the top of the formations for several days.

Bjornsted was among several climbers who thought Potter's stunt was inappropriate.

There were others, however, who supported his climb. Jeanine Sara, manager of Pagan, a climbing business in Moab, said it was not that big of a deal.

"He just climbed the arch. He didn't urinate or damage it in any way," she said.

Park officials, however, are checking to see if Potter, in fact, did damage the arch. He reportedly climbed it several times on Sunday and used a rope tied to the arch to make his descent.

Patagonia, a outdoor-equipment company, is said to have originally alerted certain media outlets to Potter's climb and said that at the time he believed his climb was legal. Potter is an ambassador for the company.

On Tuesday, it released a statement that said: "Patagonia had no prior knowledge of Dean's intent or plans to climb Delicate Arch."

The release also noted: "We have always been a group of people that mixes things up and we tend not to work with people that are 'by the book.' "

Potter not only climbed the 45-foot-high arch but photographed his climb and distributed photos to media sources in order to gain publicity.

Potter did not return phone calls by press time Tuesday.


E-mail: grass@desnews.com

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Image
Associated Press

A photo distributed by Dean Potter shows him climbing Delicate Arch Sunday. Park regulations were tightened Tuesday.

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