Greenland

KULUSUK, Greenland — Our first flight to the world's largest island was canceled because of bad weather. That was our first clue that you meet Greenland on its own terms.

Ten of us had toured Iceland; only two of us were adventurous enough — or crazy enough — to go on to Greenland. We had an extra day in our itinerary, which meant we would still have two days in Greenland, so we didn't worry.

As it turned out, getting back was the bigger challenge. On the day we were scheduled to return, the plane had a mechanical problem. After loading up and trying to take off twice, we got the word: no go. A new part would have to be flown in the next day.

But the next morning, the clouds settled in again. We heard the plane fly over, circle and fly away. Because the airport at Kulusuk is situated between two very steep mountains, a certain level of visibility is necessary for planes to land. It wasn't there.

The next day, the sun came out, the plane came in and we were all able to leave. We had been well taken care of during our two extra days, fed and housed at the hotel. (It was hardest on the day-tripper people, who had come without any luggage. But an instant camaraderie sprang up among the group, and there were no meltdowns.)

We had to adjust our return flight from Iceland back to the United States, which meant flying standby — and ultimately an upgrade to business class. (No complaints there!) We were inconvenienced but never in danger, and on that plane home we began to realize how lucky we really were to have stayed longer and seen more.

Greenland got its name from Eric the Red, who used it to convince Viking settlers to move there in the year 985. To give him some credit, climatologists say that at that time, Greenland was in a milder climatic period. Although they could not grow grains, they were able to harvest potatoes and a few vegetables.

The Vikings were not the first nor the last settlers of Greenland. Archaeological evidence shows signs of civilization as early as 4,500 years ago — peoples that probably moved across from what is now Canada. They were gone by the time Eric the Red arrived, but new groups apparently came in the 13th or 14th century.

In 1369, Norway — and Greenland with it — came under Danish rule, where Greenland has remained. Today the population is largely Inuit.

Even with four days, we barely scratched the surface of this complex and uncompromising land. But, like Eric the Red of old, we did make a few discoveries of our own.

It's not the end of the world, but you can almost see it from there. Before the 1970s, Greenland was a closed country. Visitors needed a permit, and often a scientific quest, to get to the island.