The magic of Myanmar

BAGAN, Myanmar — We have climbed a narrow, steep, stone staircase lit only by candles to reach the flat roof of the Pyatjadgyi temple here. Still somewhat gasping from the climb, we are knocked even more breathless by the view that spreads out around us as we step out of the stairwell onto the roof. Temple spire after orange temple spire — hundreds of them in every direction, large and small, tucked in among the green trees and brush and sesame fields. It is a panorama unlike anything we have ever seen.

It is no wonder that the "archaeological zone" of Bagan is the No. 1 tourist site in all of Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). Or that these sunset vigils from the tops of temples are one of the most popular activities among those tourists. Sunset at Bagan, our guide, May, tells us, is considered one of the most memorable sights in the world.

Our itinerary promised us that we would climb a "tall, serene building," and our temple is certainly that. A couple of other groups have also gathered here, but there is plenty of room for us all — to check out the views from every side, to venture even higher up more stone staircases, or to find a quiet little nook and ponder the meaning of life and history in this corner of the world.

In the far distance is the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. Mist and smoke along its shores create an even more mystical ambience.

As the sun sinks lower on the horizon, the buzz of nearby conversations slows and then dies out altogether. There is something about it that seems to call for silent reflection.

We watch as the orange globe reaches out fingers to tenderly stroke the orange brick spires before sinking out of sight. The sun may come "up like thunder outer China 'cross the bay," as the poet Rudyard Kipling noted. But at Bagan, it slips away in peaceful tranquillity.

Some writers have compared Bagan to the famed temples of Cambodia's Ankor Wat. There are similarities in style and purpose, and even somewhat in scope. Some writers muse that Bagan is the equivalent of having every great cathedral in Europe gathered together into one place and spread out at your feet. It is, to be sure, an equal expression of faith done in stone, even if those faiths differ.

The temples and pagodas of Bagan are a remnant of a "Golden Age," a time when this area ruled supreme, if not of the universe, at least of this part of the world.