Flash in the pan

"Casserole" is defined as "any of a wide variety of foods cooked in the same dish they're served in, containing meat, vegetables, rice, pasta, beans or whatever the cook wishes to add," according to "The Cook's Essential Kitchen Dictionary."

The name comes from the French word, "casse" meaning "ladle" or "pan," and was first used to denote a kind of stew pan.

Today, a casserole can be a one-pot wonder that delivers a hearty, flavorful meal with little effort. Or, it can be a dull combination of overcooked ingredients glued together with canned soup. Yes, some great casseroles use "cream of something" soup to a velvety advantage. But others rely on them too much, at the expense of flavor-boosting sauces, fresh herbs and zesty spices.

Many casseroles appear to follow a mix-and-match formula: Take a protein (cheese, fish, chicken, beef or pork), add a starch (pasta, potatoes, tortillas or rice), throw in some veggies (peas, carrots, broccoli, peppers or onions ) and bind it all together with some type of sauce (white sauce, creamed soup, cheese, sour cream, marinara or salsa). Top it with crunchy croutons, toasted cheese or nuts, or the old standby — crushed potato chips.

If you're stumped about what to serve for dinner some night, put this formula to the test and create something with what you've already got on hand.

Casseroles are great for fall; the oven adds warmth to cool evenings. And while the dish is heating, you can use that hot oven to bake potatoes or rolls as an accompaniment.

Two recently published books — "101 Things to Do With a Casserole," by Stephanie Ashcraft and Janet Eyring, and "Cover and Bake," by Cook's Illustrated magazine, are at either end of the covered-dish spectrum.

"101 Things to Do With a Casserole" is pretty much about convenience. (At least 33 of the 101 recipes use some kind of canned soup.) Most would not be accused of being haute cuisine. But, they produce a savory meal without a lot of effort and expense.

You'll recognize many of these dishes from pot lucks and comfort-food moments, such as the Green Bean Casserole, Family Friendly Chicken Enchiladas and Tater Tot Casserole.

If you're concerned about calories, the "Helpful Hints" section of "101 Things" says that low-fat, light or low-sodium ingredients can be substituted.