LODGING: Camping is at Morefield Village, where you can buy gas and attend free evening programs. Fees per night are $19 for an RV or tent and $25 for a full hookup. The campground is open spring through fall. The only accommodations in the park are at Far View Lodge, 15 miles inside the park entrance near the Far View visitors center. Room rates range $105-$126 per night in summer. Reservations: 800-449-2288, www.visitmesaverde.com

Although most folks visit in the summer, spring and fall are excellent times to be there with fewer crowds and cooler temperatures. The park is open in winter, weather permitting, but with no lodging or ranger-led tours.

ENTRANCE FEE: $10 per car, good for seven days.

PARK INFORMATION: 970-529-4465, www.nps.gov/meve; centennial information: www.mesaverde2006.org

GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND: Mesa Verde is approximately 365 miles from Salt Lake City, and about 2 1/2 hours from either Moab or Monument Valley. Allow one hour to drive from Durango to the park.

The 12-mile road from the entrance station to Far View visitors center has steep grades and sharp curves. Vehicles weighing more than 8,000 pounds and/or longer than 25 feet are prohibited.

A WORD OF CAUTION: Young children and elderly people may not enjoy the park as much as others, with lots of walking up and down hilly paths.

Some hikes and ruins tours are fairly strenuous, especially if you're not accustomed to high altitude (6,000-8,500 feet). Expect to climb steps and ladders at some locations (ask about it, if this is a problem). Also, since many sites have no guardrails, be cautious, especially if you have problems with heights. Carry plenty of water.

Bicycles are not permitted on trails, but are allowed on all park roads except those on Wetherill Mesa. Separate bike lanes are not designated, though. Organized bicycle groups are not permitted due to the narrow nature of the park's roads.

Cross-county skiing and snowshoers are allowed on some closed roads in the winter.

Pets must be on leashes and are not allowed in the park except at campgrounds, picnic areas and on roads.

Fire is always a concern. Be careful with matches, cigarettes and any other source of flames.

Much of the park is inaccessible to the handicapped, but several trails are wheelchair-accessible.