Dining out: Jason's Deli

Jason's Deli, a new restaurant across from Fashion Place Mall, has a big menu.

At some eateries, that's a turnoff. Here, it's exciting. So many intriguing choices, and such fresh foods, should keep visitors coming back for more.

At least I hope so. Our family has discovered a new favorite in Jason's Deli, which offers something for every kind of appetite, unified by a commitment to healthful foods (the menu is trans-fat free, and many ingredients are organic) and good taste. Founded in Texas, this restaurant chain offers a nice mix of traditional deli fare with Southern and Southwest influences. The Murray franchise is the first Jason's Deli to open in Utah.

It was quiet when we visited Jason's Deli for dinner on a recent weeknight. I hope that doesn't last. There's plenty of room in the spacious dining space for lots of people to enjoy the urban/European atmosphere.

One great thing about Jason's Deli for many Utahns is the cheap and generous kids' meals. Most items are $1.99, including juice, milk or soda, and others are $2.99. You can upgrade with sides for another $1.50, and you'll still be barely up to fast-food prices.

And fast food this is not, though our meals arrived at the table minutes after we ordered at the long glass counter near the restaurant's entrance. The kids split an order of creamy mac and cheese and piquant spaghetti with nicely seasoned meatballs. Both portions were generous enough for three smallish children to eat two meals and be satisfied, and I like the fact that, instead of soda, they can choose milk or juice for the same price.

My husband chose one of the po'boy sandwiches, the beefeater. This is an excellent version of a French dip, with lean and savory thin-sliced beef on a toasty and substantial wheat roll and lots of stretchy, melted Provolone cheese on top. There's an excellent au jus to dip it in that is much more beefy than salty, with full flavor. The sandwich is served simply, with chips and a crispy pickle spear.

I ordered the "Spud au Broc," a baked potato smothered in broccoli cheese soup, Cheddar cheese, fresh steamed broccoli, chives and bacon. This is a good meal, and a huge meal, too. The menu warns you — this menu section is headed "major potatoes" — but it reminds me of that line in the movie "Roxanne:": "They said it was big, but I didn't expect it to be BIG!"