Gambling is a risky bet for Indian tribes

SEDONA, ARIZ. — To get to Sedona you travel through a lush, winding canyon, its juniper and cypress trees lining a pleasantly gurgling stream. Then you emerge into brilliant sunlight and clear blue skies and into this exquisite little town over which rugged red rock pinnacles and buttes — Cathedral Rock and Courthouse Butte and Chimney Rock and Coffeepot Rock and others — keep dramatic sentinel.

This stunning setting and benign climate has attracted artists and sculptors from across the country and abroad. A woman sitting next to us at breakfast said she and her husband were visiting for a day from New York, bought a house on the spot, folded up their New York business and have lived here ever since.

But before you reach this hidden and prospering modern Shangri-La, you must traverse long miles of bleak and desolate desert comprising the tribal lands of the Navajo nation, swept at this time of year by gusty winds that overlay with a thick sediment of dust its little settlements of trailer homes and battered cars and lean-to roadside stalls selling Navajo rugs and baskets and pottery.

You cannot avoid comparing the reservations allocated to the American Indian with the "Bantustans" awarded South African blacks by the white government in the era of apartheid. In an attempt to dampen international criticism of its racist policies, the Afrikaner regime set up tribal "Bantustans" to be "self-governed" by the vastly outnumbering black population. The catch, of course, was that the lands so allocated were only a slender portion of the country, were barren for agriculture, contained no minerals or wealth and had virtually no infrastructure.

The Navajo reservation encompasses 27,000 square miles across parts of Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. There are some 275,000 Navajos in the United States, and the hardship of many of those who live on the reservation underlines the plight of many American Indians today. There is little future in raising sheep and goats on this barren terrain. Unemployment on the reservation runs over 40 percent. Per capita income is little more than $6,000 a year.

Harsh though life on the reservation may be, Navajos have a spiritual feeling about their land and a pride in their culture and unique language. During World War II, Navajo "code talkers" were used by the U.S. military on the front lines in the Pacific to baffle and deceive the listening Japanese.