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Dining out: Hagermann's Bakehouse & Cafe

Published: Friday, April 1 2005 12:00 a.m. MST

According to my husband, I'm high maintenance. (For those of you who don't get the reference, see "When Harry Met Sally.")

To be perfectly truthful, he may have a point. Witness our recent visit to Hagermann's Bakehouse and Cafe.

I didn't have any trouble picking a place to sit. We ate at a long, narrow farm-style table that nicely fit the modern-rustic vibe at Hagermann's, with its golden and brown walls, high ceilings and cement floors.

But then the evidence for high maintenance began piling up.

First, I dithered about which two sandwiches we should order, since we wanted to try half of each kind. What's the best combination? Would it be the California Turkey and the Hawaiian Hula Ham? Or perhaps the Chicken Salad and French Dip?

Eventually, I decided that the Roast Beef a la Chris and the Turkey Pomodoro were a good combination, and then we had to decide which box lunches they'd fit into best, from "Liz's Light Lunch," with a half-sandwich, soda and cookie, to the "Whole Kit and Kaboodle," with a whole sandwich, bowl of soup, chips, soda and cookie.

Then there was the soda question, wherein I requested a combination of precisely one-third vanilla Coke and two-thirds regular.

So, like I said, possibly that's high-maintenance behavior.

But lucky for me, the food made up for my persnickety ways. The roast beef, recommended by the quick and friendly server who also assembled our sandwiches, was a nicely complicated layering of lean, thin-sliced roast beef, Swiss cheese, red onion, roasted tomatoes, fresh cucumber, leaf lettuce and apricot jalapeno jelly, all of it between two crispy, panini-pressed slices of garlic jack bread. This sandwich was a delicious blend of dark and bright flavors, with the sweet-spicy jelly unifying everything.

That was my favorite, but my husband liked the Turkey Pomodoro best, with its more mellow blend of roasted turkey breast, havarti cheese, veggies and cranberry jalapeno jelly on farmhouse bread. The jelly in this case was a bit less spicy and a little sweeter, a nice complement to the less assertive turkey.

With my meal, I had a bowl of turkey noodle soup that reminded me of my mother-in-law's wonderful day-after-Thanksgiving version, with thick, homemade-tasting noodles, carrots, turkey and a rich seasoned broth.

Our girls shared two kids' meals of grilled cheese and grilled turkey-and-cheese sandwiches, both simple and fresh, with drinks and fresh oatmeal-raisin cookies for dessert.

Speaking of dessert, save room for it on your visit to Hagermann's. Besides those buttery, brown-sugary cookies, we enjoyed a loaf of dark, rich pumpkin-chocolate-chip bread and some cinnamon-laced, sugar-frosted monkey bread that's a mighty fine substitute for cinnamon rolls — though they have those, too.

We also went home with a loaf of garlic-jack bread and a jar of cranberry jalapeno jelly. I thought about having the apricot variety, or possibly the raspberry, but I went with the cranberry for a variety of complicated reasonings that offer further proof of you-know-what.

Sandwiches $4.25-$8.25, box lunch additions $1-$4.25, soup $3-$5.50, kids' meals $3.25-$4.95, sweet breads $4.50, pastries 50 cents-$3, breads $3.25-$5.25


Rating: ***

Where: 684 E. 11400 South, Draper

Hours: Monday-Friday, 6 a.m.-7 p.m.

Saturday, 6 a.m.-6 p.m.

Closed Sunday

Payment: No checks accepted

Phone: 495-9332


Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com