Dining out: Citrus Grill

Citris Grill makes me wish I lived in the Millcreek area. If I did, I could make the place my neighborhood hangout, a role for which it is perfectly suited.

What the heck, maybe I'll do it anyway — it's just a few minutes up I-215 from my neighborhood. For a place with such brisk and competent service, creative food, and a welcoming, relaxed vibe, the drive would be worth it.

We visited Citris Grill on a weeknight, kids in tow. I'd heard about the unusual, even upscale, nature of the food, so I was a little nervous about bringing the gals. But the staff took it in stride, seating us at a huge farmhouse-style table, handing out the kids' menus and bringing drinks with lids.

Though it's located in the middle of a strip mall, Citris Grill feels like a corner shop in a cozy neighborhood. The entire space is open, but earthy colors, wood furniture and soft but illuminating lighting lend a nice intimacy. There's a TV in one corner, turned down low, and groovy music playing softly in the background. At nicely spaced tables, diners ranging from a group of older ladies to college-age couples all seemed to kick back, smile and enjoy the experience.

One appealing feature of Citris Grill is that many menu items come in two sizes: hearty and petite. Thus, we were able to order "petite" portions of two appetizers, the pepper-crusted risotto cakes and the crab wontons, and still have room for our entrees after eating them.

They didn't last long once they hit the table. The risotto cakes were milky inside and crunchy outside. They were not as peppery as I had expected but were nicely accompanied by a fresh, smooth-textured marinara and dollops of thick, tangy goat cheese. The crab wontons were delicately crisped on the outside and filled with a smooth cream-cheese-and-crab mixture, in which the crab's sweet flavor was prominent.

For dinner, the kids enjoyed macaroni and cheese with spiral noodles and a creamy, sharp cheese sauce, with fries on the side in lieu of green beans.

I had the petite size of one of Citris Grill's wood-grilled pizzas, and it was plenty for me. It's a personal-size pizza with a delicious, crisp crust and lots of melted mozzarella topped with mushrooms sauteed in Madeira wine, caramelized onions and crumbles of gorgonzola cheese. The gorgonzola was intense, the mushrooms earthy and rich, and the onions tender and sweet. It's a great combination of flavors.