Myanmar (pronounced "me-an-ma" as if it has a "w" on the end instead of an "r") is a popular destination for French tourists; Germans also come in large numbers, as do the Japanese and Australians. American numbers are more limited. But we encountered no anti-American feelings. The people everywhere were warm and friendly and bore us no ill-will for our government's policies. We never felt restricted in what we could do or say; there wasn't an oppressive feeling like you used to encounter in Russia, say, before the demise of communism.

It was also nice to be in a country where hands were not out for every little thing. People were happy to have their pictures taken — without the reimbursement that is expected in many poorer countries. Nor did packs of little children accost us at every stop, expecting a handout.

Sadly, as more tourists come that will probably change. Already a few children were asking for soap and shampoo — the little bottles from hotels are popular. There is a fine line between giving them something they can use and turning them into beggars who drop out of school to work the streets. "Please don't ruin our children," the cruise director on our ship told us. We hope it's a message they can continue to teach.

Something else that has changed: The government once required tourists to change $200 U.S. dollars into Foreign Exchange Certificates to use for any purchases (and anything leftover could not be changed back). That no longer happens. We could use both the local currency kyat (pronounced "chat") or U.S. dollars at stores or on the street. (No credit cards or ATMs, however.)

• A TIME OF ITS OWN. We flew into Bangkok for an overnight stay and from there to Yangon, just under an hour flight. When we landed in Yangon, we turned our watches back 30 minutes. But some suggest we were really turning them back 30 years. If so, it was certainly part of the charm.

The majority of the Burmese people still wear the traditional longyi — both men and women. It is a long tube of cloth that is folded and wrapped around the waist. Men tie them at the front; women lap and tuck at the side. But it is a versatile garment. Men can turn them into shorts, jackets, tote bags and more with a few different folds.

Women and children often wear thanaka powder on their faces. This is made from a powder that comes from ground tree bark (most grind it themselves) mixed with a little water and brushed on the face. It serves as decoration as well as a cooling agent and protection from the sun.

The cities are bustling, busy places with cars and motorcycles — however, no honking is permitted. That is certainly a welcome change from the traffic noise of cities like Bangkok or Beijing.

In the countryside, horse- and cow-carts are more common. Much of the labor — from road work to construction to plowing fields — is done by manpower (or water buffalo power, as the case may be for farming).

While hotels offer all the modern amenities a traveler could want, there is still a sense that the country remains close to its roots and honors its history.