Day or night, Washington beckons

WASHINGTON — When the National Museum of the American Indian opened last month, visitors were greeted with a 23-foot-long electronic sign that flashed "welcome" in more than 100 native languages.

It was the latest in a series of inviting changes in the nation's capital — a city that was once as famous for its crime rate and slums as for its cultural institutions and high-powered politicians. Despite its long history as a tourist destination, downtown Washington was avoided by many visitors and residents after dark. The Washington Post said D.C. had come to stand for "Deserted City."

But a downtown renaissance — coupled with new attractions and museums in the city and beyond — has revitalized the area. Stylish restaurants, nightclubs, theaters and brew pubs are drawing crowds to the capital at night. And during the day, visitors can choose from a host of new activities as well as see the sights that have drawn tourists for generations.

I visited the nation's capital twice in six months to sample its flourishing cultural scene and tour some of its new museums and attractions. Guided by a friend who spends his days as a button-down D.C. civil servant, I saw vibrant night life, from hip ethnic clubs and restaurants to clubby old-line watering holes.

I visited lively neighborhoods such as Penn Quarter, Adams Morgan and Dupont Circle — hot real-estate markets where condos, lofts and row houses come with million-dollar-plus price tags. And I walked miles at night through tourist areas and bustling neighborhoods without worrying about becoming a crime statistic.

That's not to say the District is crime-free. It's still among the nation's most violent cities. But in recent years it has increased police presence on the streets and has more officers per capita than any other large U.S. city. They're out and visible. And there are enough people on the street to encourage strollers and discourage thugs.

Although the night life was entertaining, nothing can top D.C.'s world-class museums. I didn't waste any time during the day, when most Smithsonian Institution facilities are open 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and free.

Oddly enough, the man who started it all, James Smithson, never visited the United States. He was a British scientist who bequeathed $500,000 to the United States in 1829 to establish an institution "for the increase and diffusion of knowledge." The Smithsonian — with 18 museums and the National Zoo — eventually became the largest such complex in the world, drawing 24 million visitors last year.