Don't get stuck in a hummus rut — experiment a little

CONCORD, N.H. — Every now and again it's good to tinker with old favorites.

A few years ago I did that with hummus, which had become one of my culinary staples ever since I was introduced to it some 20 years ago.

Over the years I graduated from the somewhat pasty versions that came as dry boxed mixes to the grocery store tubs of garlicky pate and finally to making my own.

But though I loved the creamy goodness of chickpeas mashed with tahini, I often was disappointed by raw or bitter aftertastes. So I started playing.

With plenty of experimentation I eventually ended up with a fantastic hummus that replaces tahini with cashew butter (heaven in a jar) and the broad pungency of garlic with the sharper bite of hot pepper sauce.

It was a winner, and I haven't tinkered with the recipe since then.

Maybe that's the problem. Food is supposed to be dynamic, to change as our tastes mature and evolve. I was stuck in a cashew-hot pepper-hummus rut.

So I started playing again.

I wanted a hummus that was more rustic. Something more visceral. OK, something chunkier. Something less fattening would be welcome, too. Eight tablespoons of cashew nut butter is far over the top.

First, the beans. Those could stay the same — a standard can of chickpeas. Some people suggest rinsing them briefly to remove excess sodium, but I just adjust my added salt later.

Next, the acid. Most hummus calls for lemon juice or vinegar to balance the fat. Fine, but predictable. Plus, I wanted something that could stand up and be noticed on the tongue. Lime juice won out.

Speaking of fat, I decided to return to sesame seeds (from which tahini is made). To avoid the raw taste I disliked early on, I lightly toasted them, then pulverized them. No more raw taste, plus they were chunky.

For once, the garlic could stay. My real motivation for eliminating it a few years ago (back when I was single) was that it can spoil one's breath. Having successfully wooed my wife, I decided to bring it on.

Finally, a sweet touch. For further balance I went with a bit of honey.

The result? A pleasantly chunky hummus that is rich, savory and just a hint sweet.

But I wasn't done playing. I'd once read about an Indian dish that sauteed chickpeas with a diced onion in olive oil, cumin, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sounded to me like ingredients for a great hummus.