Utah tasters put salmon to the test

Wild salmon is prized for its great flavor, color and texture.

But can consumers really tell the difference between farmed and wild salmon?

In a blind taste-test conducted in the Deseret Morning News test kitchen, six of the 12 tasters preferred the farmed salmon, three preferred the wild salmon and three had no preference. Although eight tasters noticed that the wild salmon had a brighter color, the majority thought the farmed fish had a stronger, more salmon-y flavor and a firmer texture.

For the test, 1 pound each of fresh farmed Atlantic salmon ($6.99 per pound) and fresh wild Alaska king salmon ($12.99 per pound) were oven-broiled. The farmed salmon came from a local grocery store. The wild salmon came from a specialty fish market, with the purveyor cutting it from the fish carcass at the time of purchase. Aside from a little margarine to keep the fish from sticking, nothing was added to taint the flavor.

The fish was marked simply "No. 1" and "No. 2." Tasters rated each on color, texture and taste.

The volunteer tasters — six men and six women from the Deseret Morning News staff — all seemed familiar with the seafood. Many said they were salmon fans. One said he'd been salmon-fishing on the Oregon coast before, and another mentioned her love for wild Copper River salmon.

But most were not impressed with the wild king salmon, which according to the Alaska Salmon Buyer's Guide "deserves its royal status and superior price." They wrote:

"I had no idea, other than sight and texture, that I was eating salmon. It was bland."

"I seemed to detect an aftertaste that wasn't as pleasing to me."

A few did have an appreciation for the wild salmon, saying it looked more natural, seemed fresher; that it had "a more natural fishy texture," a "little more flavor" and was "way better."

Some of the comments for the farmed salmon:

"Firmer and a little more flavorful."

"Great salmon flavor!"

"Delicious and authentic."

Not all lauded the farmed salmon. One wrote, "Looks kind of dull and old, tastes like it was marinated in something."