'Super Size' a cautionary fast-food tale

SUPER SIZE ME — *** 1/2 — Documentary feature on the possible dangers of a fast-food diet; rated R (profanity, vulgarity, drugs, brief partial nudity, brief gore).

It seems both ironic and appropriate that some audience members watching "Super Size Me" will be indulging in products the film rails against.

The irony probably won't be lost on most viewers for long — that is, if they're receptive to or open-minded about this cautionary documentary. Maybe some will even change their dietary habits.

For those concerned that the movie is too one-sided, yes, "Super Size Me" is very critical of fast-food chains. But filmmaker Morgan Spurlock at least tries to let the fast-food industry defend itself, though not many outlets comment or respond to his criticisms.

"Super Size Me" finds Spurlock examining the health effects of a strictly fast-food diet. To the horror of his vegan chef girlfriend, he decides to be his own test subject by eating nothing but menu items from McDonald's for 30 days. The normally svelte Spurlock will have to stick to normal-size portions, unless the "Super Size" option is first offered by the restaurant, and he is to get as little exercise as possible.

Not too surprisingly, Spurlock quickly gains weight — 10 pounds in the first five days of a diet he describes as "every 8-year-old's dream." But even the doctors he consults (including a cardiologist) are surprised by how ill he becomes when his triglyceride levels soar.

Admittedly, Spurlock does stack the deck by consulting such outspoken fast-food critics as Jon Banzhaf, who sued McDonald's on behalf of two obese teenagers. But there's also no denying the "firsthand" evidence about the unique diet's effects on Spurlock.

Spurlock is considerably more charismatic and more endearing than documentarian Michael Moore, to whom he's already been compared. And as narrator and subject, he has considerable screen presence.

"Super Size Me" is rated R for occasional use of strong sexual profanity, crude references to sexual and other bodily functions, drug content (hypodermic injections and talk of prescription usage), brief partial male nudity, and brief gore (surgical). Running time: 98 minutes.

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E-mail: jeff@desnews.com