Stalk talk: Asparagus crops up in many different dishes

Surprise! Thin isn't in, as far as asparagus is concerned.

With asparagus season arriving, it's time to play the stalk market. Asparagus spears range in size from jumbo to very thin. Contrary to what many believe, thick stalks are actually more tender than thin ones, according to Cherie Watte, executive director of the California Asparagus Commission.

"We believe the public has fallen victim to the thinner-is-better theory, probably because of the baby-vegetable trend," said Cherie Watte, executive director of the California Asparagus Commission. "But the thicker ones are actually less fibrous, more meaty and tender, and often sweeter. If you were a grower's wife, you would be out in the sheds grabbing those."

But every size has its use, she said. "For instance, last weekend I tossed some thick ones in olive oil and barbecued them on the grill. I used the thin ones in a frittata for a Sunday breakfast."

Whatever size you choose, the spears should be fairly uniform so they cook evenly.

California supplies 75 percent to 80 percent of America's fresh asparagus, and it looks like a good crop this season, said Watte. "We were about two weeks late getting started, but we're making up for lost time. The weather has been extremely good to us, we've had a nice spring and we expect consistent quantities through May."

So you should start seeing asparagus in grocery stores at $1.99 per pound instead of the $3.99 it is the rest of the year. Marsha Gilford, spokeswoman for Smith's Food and Drug Stores, said asparagus is expected to be plentiful here from mid- to late-April, and typically prices are lower then with so much on the market.

"Asparagus and artichokes are available year-round here in Utah with our amazing transportation network around the country," said Eric DeBonis, chef and owner of The Paris. "However, they are best now because it is the heart of their natural seasonality — early spring."

DeBonis currently has a grilled asparagus and fried artichoke appetizer on his menu. The fresh artichokes are quartered, steamed until just tender and fried in olive oil about 2 minutes. The asparagus are steamed until just tender, coated in olive oil, and salt and pepper, and placed on a wood-fired grill for about 1 minute per side. They're served together, with a savory sabayon (a sauce made with egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice, extra-virgin olive oil and salt and pepper.)