If you go to Toronto

Seasons: Fall is one of the nicest times of year to visit Toronto, with moderate temperatures, scenic foliage and the new film and theater season. The International Festival of Authors is held Oct. 22 to Nov. 1.

Getting around: Buy a day pass for the quick and clean subway, streetcars and buses. It's also useful for exploring more distant neighborhoods like Greektown on Danforth Avenue, the Beaches, Little India and the second Chinatown.

Theater: Visitors can buy half-price tickets to same-day performances at the T.O. TIX booth at 208 Yonge St.

Packages: Tourism Toronto, 800-363-1990, or www.torontotourism.com

Things to do: The "Time Out Toronto Guide" (Penguin, $16.95) is the most useful general guidebook. The magazines Where Toronto, Toronto Life (www.torontolife.com), Eye (www.eye.net), and Now (www.nowtoronto.com) all detail the city's arts and entertainment.

Places to eat and shop:

Bar Italia, 582 College St.

Bar One, 924 Queen St. West

Blowfish, 668 King St. West

Cafe Diplomatico, 594 College St.

Chocolate Addict, 185 Baldwin St.

Coupe Bizzarre, 704 Queen St. West

Courage My Love, 14 Kensington Ave.

Dufflet Pastries, 787 Queen St. West

Gypsy Co-op, 817 Queen St. West

Horseshoe Tavern, 370 Queen St. West

Le Select Bistro, 328 Queen St. West

Lai Wah Heen, 108 Chestnut St.

Miss Behavn, 650 Queen St. West

Rain, 19 Mercer St.

Roseland Antiques, 702 Queen Street West

Susur, 601 King St. West

Tempo, 594 College St.

The Rivoli, 332 Queen St. West