A well-lit sign at one end of the line of food carts and grilling stands explains both in Chinese and in English the history of the Donghuamen Night Market:

"Originated from 1984, from the east of Donganmen street to the north of Chenguang street, Donghuamen night market collected more than 60 specialty snacks throughout the country based on Beijing snacks," it reads.

"In 2000, to carry forward the Chinese culinary culture and enhance the friendly exchanges with foreign countries, the people's government of Dongcheng District rebuilt the night market for dainty snacks.

"Assembling nearly 100 kinds of famous, special, delicious and new snacks all over China, integrating the traditional delicacies with the modern business facilities, combining the culinary culture and sightseeing, adding flowers to the brocade of Wangfujing Business Street, the night market becomes an enchanting scenery of the Capital night when the evening lights are lit."

Over the years, and especially during the current Olympics, the Donghuamen Night Market has become a must-see for Beijing visitors.

Even if not a must-taste.

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E-mail: taylor@desnews.com