Dining out: The Wing Coop

Our young'uns stayed occupied with the kids' meals, a bargain at $2.99 for a tender coated with any sauce — our kids had the authentic and glossy teriyaki and a nicely balanced but mild barbecue sauce — plus fries and a drink.

We had a bunch of sides. The thick-cut, crispy fries and carrot and celery sticks were favorites with the kids, who also enjoyed the corn bread — cooked in muffin tins so each one looked like a little cupcake. I was hopeful about the coleslaw, but despite the addition of cranberries, it was bland. The baked beans, on the other hand, were an explosion of flavor, with creamy beans swimming in rich bacon-laden sauce.

When I visit The Wing Coop again, I think I'll get takeout. It's a popular option and spares customers trying to secure a table in the teeny dining space. That space is sort of a no-man's-land: I watched several customers try to clean tables themselves in the time we were there, and never saw a staff member come out with a washcloth or broom (though I saw several cleaning the open kitchen area, which is reassuring).

One other reason to get takeout is the music selection. I don't mind tunes played as loudly as they were at the Wing Coop, but I do object to loud music with profanity in public spaces, especially when I'm with my kids.

Individual meals $4.99-$6.99, group plates $11.49-$60.99, salads $6.99, sandwiches and wraps $5.99-$6.99, family meals $27-$39, sides $2-$3, kids' meals $2.99.

Rating: ** 1/2

Where: 3791 Wasatch Blvd. (another location at 4095 S. Redwood Road, West Valley)

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Sunday, noon-6 p.m.

Payment: Major credit cards accepted; no checks

Phone: 274-9464

Web: www.wingcoop.com

Wheelchair access: Accessible, but crowded

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Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com