Some cruises will provide ground transportation to Denali from their first or final port of call, and they'll include the bus tour in your cruise package. But you can also book the bus tour on your own and rent a car for the 250-mile trip to the park from Anchorage.

Once you get to Denali, though, you can only drive your car 15 miles into the park before you must turn around; individual access is limited in order to help preserve the wilderness. That's why 300,000 of Denali's 400,000 annual visitors take the bus tours, which are allowed farther into the park. The Tundra tour travels 54 miles in the park, and it's reasonably priced at $93.50 (children, $46.75).

On the bus tour we took, we saw moose, caribou and Dall sheep in addition to the bear. We were so captivated by the park's landscape, animals and history that we decided to return the next day on our own, even though we knew we'd only be able to drive in those 15 miles.

We were rewarded with an unforgettable moment that rivaled our observation of the bear the day before. We spotted a magnificent owl perched in a treetop by the side of the road, so we pulled over and rolled the car window down so my teenage son could take pictures.

Just then, the bird suddenly stretched its wings wide and shot out of the tree, swooping straight for us. It swerved at the last moment as we rather hastily closed the window.

For a family from New York, where the only birds we see are pigeons, it doesn't get any more exciting than having an owl remind you that you are indeed where the wild things are. Six months later, we're still talking about that owl, along with all the other creatures we encountered in Alaska.

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If you go . . .

ALASKA'S BEST BEAR-VIEWING SITES: Listed at www.nps.gov/aplic or www.wildlife.alaska.gov/viewing/bearviewing_sites.pdf.

WILDLIFE VIEWING TOURS AND TIPS: www.travelalaska.com/Activities/Wildlife/index.aspx

DENALI NATIONAL PARK: www.nps.gov/dena/ or 907-683-2294.

DENALI BUS TOURS: www.reservedenali.com or 800-622-7275. Tundra Wilderness Tour offered May 25-Sept. 11, adults $93.50, children 14 and under $46.75. Reservations being accepted now for summer 2008.

CRUISES: Holland America, www.holland america.com. Carnival, www.carnival.com. Royal Caribbean, www.royalcaribbean.com. Princess and Celebrity also cruise to Alaska.

CHILKAT BALD EAGLE PRESERVE: www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/units/eagleprv.htm.