From Deseret News archives:

Fowl play? Battle over serving duck delicacy leads to protests in Utah

Published: Wednesday, Jan. 16, 2008 12:59 a.m. MST
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The SHARK mailing prompted the Bill White Restaurant Group (owner of Wahso, Grappa, Ghidotti, Chimayo and Windy Ridge Cafe in Park City) to pull foie grass off its menu, said Jeff Jones, the company's director of strategic planning. Later, during an annual recruiting trip to the Culinary Institute of America, 10 chefs drove to the Hudson Valley Foie Gras farm in New York to inspect it for themselves.

As to what they learned from the trip, Jones offered only an official statement that the restaurant group is dedicated to researching product facilities and inspecting the treatment of animals and cleanliness, concluding, "We strongly encourage the same from anyone interested in gaining knowledge about food and its origin."

Farming or cruelty?

Olson, Holmquist and Montecot brought up the same underlying fact: All meat involves killing animals.

"It's not that I don't love ducks, but I don't understand what the cut-off point is," Olson said. "If we stop serving duck liver, should we also stop serving duck? Then what about the chicken and the beef? What about farm-raised fish? They are all harvested for consumption."

Hatfield says the critical point is that animals would be humanely raised and painlessly killed, although as a vegetarian she thinks people would be better off not eating so many animals.

"Foie gras is an especially cruel type of food, and it's so unnecessary," she said. "There are hundreds of other things people can eat."

Story continues below
The "Delicacy of Despair" video shows ducks confined in cages, with sores and mangy feathers, and a rat biting a duck that is too obese to get away. Hatfield said the footage was shot by activists who went undercover and got jobs at Sonoma Foie Gras in California and at Hudson Valley Foie Gras in New York, two of the three major suppliers of foie gras in the United States.

When asked in a telephone interview about the "Delicacy of Despair" footage, Hudson Valley Foie Gras operations manager Marcus Henley said their ducks aren't caged and that they have room to move around in large, heated buildings. He said that ducks (and geese) have tough lining in their throats and esophagi, so having a tube put down their throats isn't as painful as it looks. He also said that in the wild, ducks naturally overfeed and fatten their livers for energy prior to migration, and a fatty liver isn't diseased.

"We can't attest to what goes on in other farms, but we have an open-door policy so that journalists and chefs can come and see for themselves that our animals are cared for and this isn't detrimental to animal welfare," he said. "I've worked here six years, and I've seen three or four rats in all that time. We have a rodent-control program."

Recent comments

Animal rights forever. that's what you say, as well as what the...

Darcie | Feb. 16, 2008 at 1:35 p.m.

Animal rights forever! Stop animal abuse!

Gyusz | Jan. 18, 2008 at 6:21 p.m.

YAY DUCK! I eat Fois Gras

Tony | Jan. 18, 2008 at 12:00 p.m.

Image
Stein Eriksen Lodge

Chef Zane Holmquist at the Stein Eriksen Lodge in Park City says he'll continue to serve foie gras.

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