Seasoned readings — New Christmas cookbooks

Combine all ingredients, except nuts and parsley, in a medium bowl and mix until well-blended. Divide the mixture in half and spoon into two small bowls lined with waxed paper. Lift out waxed paper from each bowl and mold cheese into a ball, using waxed paper to protect hands. Roll each ball in chopped nuts and parsley. Refrigerate. Remove from refrigerator about 15 minutes before serving with a variety of crackers. Makes two small cheese balls. — "Lion House Christmas"

CHEESE STRAWS

This perennial holiday appetizer got a makeover after testers decided Asiago and Parmesan were the only cheeses that didn't taste bland against the rich dough.

1 9-by-9-inch sheet frozen puff pastry

2 ounces Parmesan or Asiago cheese, grated (1 cup)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Thaw pastry on the counter for 10 minutes. Adjust the oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 425 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set them aside.

Place the puff pastry on a sheet of parchment and sprinkle with 1/2 cup of the cheese and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Place a sheet of parchment over the cheese and, using a rolling pin, press the cheese into the dough by gently rolling the pin back and forth. Without removing the parchment, carefully flip the dough over, cheese-side down. Remove the top layer of parchment and sprinkle with the remaining cheese, salt and pepper. Cover the pastry with the parchment. Measure the piece of dough and continue to roll it out, if necessary, to form a 10 1/2-inch square.

Remove the top sheet of parchment and, using a sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut the dough into 14 3/4-inch-wide strips. Gently twist each strip of dough and transfer it to a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing the strips about 1 inch apart.

Bake immediately until fully puffed and golden brown, about 10 minutes, reversing the positions of the baking sheets from top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Remove the straws to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes before serving.

Where things can go wrong: It's best to work with partially thawed pastry. If it's completely thawed, you will likely have trouble twisting it into the desired shape. — "Best of America's Test Kitchen, 2007"

ROCKIN' AROUND THE CHRISTMAS TREE WITH SALMON BALLS

One of Brenda Lee's traditions is a "fan Christmas tree," decorated with ornaments sent by her fans. Her family likes to sit around the tree and snack on these salmon appetizers.

3 pounds cooked salmon fillet, skin removed

1 cup cooked chickpeas

2 large eggs

1 cup finely chopped fresh spinach leaves

1/3 cup dried bread crumbs

1/3 cup minced fresh onion

1 tablespoon teriyaki sauce

Salt and cracked black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil