PROVO — The serenity that characterizes the Osaka Japanese restaurant in Provo begins with the proprietress, a tranquil lady who is continually pleasant and welcoming. She sets the scene for a lovely dining experience in an atmosphere that invites privacy. It's a great place to unwind with its soft music, water sounds and flowers.

The biggest bonus, however, is Osaka's food. Whether steamed, simmered or fried, the food is fresh and of high quality. The restaurant is traditional in the sense that it provides an essential base of rice and soup accompanied by a variety of side dishes that may include fish, meat or vegetables. It is reminiscent of Japanese country cooking with simple dishes prepared well.

The soup served is called miso and is a clear broth with tiny squares of tofu, or bean curd, rich in protein. I happen to like tofu as a blotter for other flavors, but if the slightly spongy texture is off putting, the soup is still light and delicate.

Salad is the next course. There is nothing extraordinary about the salad — it is simply a pile of lettuce — but the dollop of peanut dressing in the center is sublime. I have tried to duplicate it with disastrous, down-the-disposal results. I have tried to purchase it at Asian markets, which has yielded OK results but nothing as pleasing as the Osaka's. My only option so far is to eat it there.

A variety of side dishes are offered, including agedashi tofu, a tofu base with a flavorful gingered sauce. Less adventurous may be the gyoza pot stickers with meat stuffed in dumplings.

Every entree I have tried has been full of flavor. The sukiyaki is a one-pot dish with meat thinly sliced in a broth that features noodles, Chinese cabbage, onions, mushrooms, and yes, tofu. I especially like the tender beef version. I have tried dipping it in a beaten egg and then rice, but I keep remembering that that egg is raw, which undermines the mental experience. The teriyaki, either steak, pork, chicken or salmon, features a sweetened soy sauce glaze that makes it visually appealing, and the yakiniku is a seasoned, slightly salty and delicious beef dish.

Most of the above mentioned dishes can be eaten donburi-style, which means served in a bowl atop a bed of rice.

Osaka offers batter-fried seafood and vegetables called tempura. They have a delicate texture despite being deep fried. The cook gets the unique texture by not over mixing the batter and making sure the water used for the batter remains ice cold. It is simple and wonderful. While I am not a fan of sushi, Osaka has a generous variety of common and more exotic flavors.

(The Osaka gets its name from Japan's third largest city. The Provo restaurant is certainly not the third largest in the area, but it might be my third favorite area restaurant.)

OSAKA RESTAURANT—**** 1/2 —

Where: 46 W. Center St., Provo

How much: $4.90-$11.95 for entrees

Reservations required on weekends

Phone: 373-1060

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Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at: charlene_winters@byu.edu.