Potato salads are sharing a general direction in food trends — toward new flavor, trying bright new twists, adding peppy details from different ethnic or regional traditions.

These adventures in taste don't make an old favorite old-hat. They just give diners more choice: the traditional or variations.

The following three recipes feature different takes on the potato salad, the perennial summer dish. One is traditional style, made with a home cook's favorite family recipe; the second is a basil-flavored recipe that borrows from Italian cooking; and the third recipe is influenced by the popularity of Thai food, with its bold flavors.

ITALIAN BASIL POTATO SALAD

(Preparation 30 minutes)

For the dressing:

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 3 ounces)

4 to 6 large cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/2 to 1 teaspoon coarse salt (or to taste)

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad:

2 1/2 to 3 pounds Idaho potatoes (5 large or 8 to 9 medium)

1 small bulb fennel, cored, thinly sliced and chopped (about 1 cup)

1/2 cup finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes (2 ounces)

1/2 cup sliced black olives

Pine nuts or chopped walnuts for garnish (optional)

In a food processor, combine the first 6 ingredients (basil through black pepper); pulse to finely chop. With the processor on, drizzle in the olive oil to make a creamy, bright-green sauce. (Alternatively, combine all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.) Set dressing aside.

Over high heat, bring a large pot of water (salted with 1 tablespoon coarse salt, if desired) to a boil. While waiting for the water to boil, cut the potatoes into 1/2-inch cubes (do not peel potatoes). Drop potatoes into the boiling water and cook, loosely covered, for 6 minutes, until a knife can pierce the potato easily, but cubes are still firm. Drain potatoes and place them back in the pot.

Using a wooden spoon, gently stir in the basil dressing. Add the sun-dried tomatoes, olives and chopped fennel.

Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with pine nuts or chopped walnuts, if desired. For a nice presentation, serve the salad in "cups" made from radicchio leaves.

Makes sixteen 1/2-cup servings (about 8 cups of salad).

SPICY THAI POTATO SALAD

(Preparation 40 minutes)

For the dressing:

3/4 cup natural-style peanut butter

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey