I also had a single shrimp taco, which turned out to be my favorite part of the meal. Into a fresh, saucer-size tortilla, our server piled plump shrimp sauteed in honey butter, then topped them with mango salsa, a sprinkling of cheese and, at my request, chunky pico de gallo. They're messy eating but more than repay the effort.

I think I'll try them as a meal next time, or perhaps the sweet-onion enchiladas. Or I might have one of Bajio's salads, with the chicken green-chile variety (caramelized sweet onions, green-chile chutney, chicken breast, cheese and tortilla strips over greens) high on the list. Despite the wealth of competition in its dining niche, Bajio has just enough distinctiveness to make it a place I'd seek out for a repeat visit.

Burritos $3.49-$6.49, tacos $5.49-8.49, enchiladas $4.99-$5.99, specialties $6.99-$8.39, salads and soup $4.99-$7.99, kids' meals $2.99-$3.49, sides 49 cents-$2.49

Rating: ***

Where: 7662 S. Union Park Ave. (Union Heights shopping center), Sandy

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Closed Sunday

Payment: Checks, credit cards accepted

Phone: 569-2400

Web: www.Bajiogrill.com

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Stacey Kratz is a free-lance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com