Iceland: Where geology has shaped history

REYKJAVIK, Iceland — More so than many countries, Iceland was shaped by geologic forces: volcanoes, geothermal activity, shifting tectonic plates. It wears this history boldly — you cannot go far in any direction without encountering some evidence of it.

Iceland's human history — which stretches back to the 9th century and beyond into the swirling mists of Viking lore and legend — is a more subtle garment. In fact, most of this history is embedded into the country's soul rather than worn on its landscape.

Part of that is due to the geology. Because of the volcanic soil and the cool northern climate, for example, there are few trees. Rock quarries are also lacking. Thus, with few natural resources for building great edifices, Icelanders did not put up the castles and monuments of other European cultures. The building material of choice for Viking ancestors was turf, supplemented with driftwood and limited stone. Turf does not suffer the centuries gladly.

Still, the history of this island nation is a viable presence. You hear it in the language — which is the original old Norse, unchanged because of isolation since the Middle Ages.

You hear it in the stories the people tell. The greatest Icelandic treasure is the Sagas, written down mostly in the 13th century and still readable today. These are stories of the early settlers and their lives, their families and their heroic deeds as well as their struggles and tragedies. Considered one of the world's great literary achievements, they were written on calf hide, but little is known about most of the authors or how much is fact and fiction.

You also sense the history wherever you go. Nowhere on the island are you far from its Viking roots. This can make for fascinating journeys for today's travelers who delight in following in the footsteps of the Vikings — historic figures such as these:

Ingolfur Arnarson: First Settler

In the late 9th century, when the diaspora of Viking culture was at its height throughout Europe, Ingolfur Arnarson and his family came to settle Iceland.

In 874, in keeping with traditions of the times, as he approached the land, Ingolfur cast his "pillars of rank" into the sea. Wherever the pillars landed, that was where the first settlement would be — the location was in the hands of the gods.

Ingolfur landed his ship at a cape on the southwest tip of the island, and sent two slaves to find the poles. Three years later, one of the slaves returned; he had found the poles at the present site of Reykjavik.

Legend has it that Ingolfur was actually quite happy on the south coast where he landed, and as you drive through this area — which many consider among the prettiest parts of Iceland — it is easy to see why.

Comments