Shirakawa said most visitors spend just one day in the park. Since the cliff dwellings are scattered and some 20 miles distant from the park entrance, she strongly suggests visitors plan ahead, read up on the park, and have a good idea of what's available.

"Most visitors want to see Cliff Palace," she said. As such, securing tickets ($2.75 a person on a first-come, first-served basis) from the Far View visitors center, ought to be first on an agenda. Rangers can also assist with planning a day's visit.

"You have quite a structured visit here," Shirakawa said, contrary to many national parks.

Cliff Palace, largest of the dwellings, had 151 rooms and housed some 250 people. It is accessible only by an approximately one-hour ranger-guided tour. Since rock steps and minor climbing are involved, the very young/old or physically handicapped may not be able to negotiate the rugged path down to Cliff Palace. For example, visitors must descend five different eight-foot ladders on a 100-foot cliff along the quarter-mile path. (Balcony House requires negotiating a 32-foot ladder, as well as crawling through a 12-foot tunnel.)

However, it's worth it, offering an up-close and personal look at innovations of American Indians. Rangers allow a question-and-answer session. A Cliff Palace visit also reveals that the occupants wanted limited and even harrowing access to their home.

Tickets are also required for Balcony House and Long House. In peak summer season, Shirakawa said rangers will not give visitors tickets to multiple sites — meaning you can take only one of the ranger-guided tours each day— Cliff Palace, Balcony House or Long House. That's why she recommends at least a day and a half stay in summer.

A self-guided tour — with no required tickets — is available at Spruce Tree House. Rangers are at that site to answer questions. You should not sit, climb or walk on archaeological structures.

An often overlooked feature is the Chapin Mesa Museum. You could easily spend an hour or more inside. Spruce Tree Terrace, near the museum, sells food, gifts and souvenirs.

Mysteries of Mesa Verde include the D-shape of the ceremonial Sun Temple, tunnels from towers to kivas and the geometric patterns on paintings inside Cliff Palace.

The first white men to discover Mesa Verde were Richard Wetherill and his brother-in-law, Charles Mason, in 1888, while rounding up stray cattle.

Shirakawa stressed that even though Mesa Verde celebrates American Indian culture, it also has a rugged natural beauty. You should take note of the geology and flora — reasons the area's cliff inhabitants located there in the first place.

Mesa Verde has a "stabilization crew" that has the ongoing job of keeping the ruins as intact as possible.

Although Mesa Verde is open year-round, Shirakawa said driving up the steep park road in winter can be a harrowing experience on snowy winter mornings.

All the features within the park are open from late April to late October. The Far View visitors center is open 8 a.m. through 5 p.m., daily, mid-April to mid-October.

Summer heat and dry conditions mean you should carry and drink plenty of water.

Mesa Verde had the National Park system's first museum, as well as its first-ever campfire program.

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E-mail: lynn@desnews.com