Beverly writes: My friends have marveled that even from the time they were just tykes, my children have loved all types of Chinese food. How did I do it, they all wanted to know. The answer was simple, really: the all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet.

We always had a simple rule for our kids: "Take only one bite of each dish that looks appealing. If you don't like it, you don't have to eat it." (They were even allowed to spit that bite out in dire circumstances.) If they did like a dish, they were encouraged to go back for more.

Because the kids felt no pressure to eat any of the new foods that didn't suit their palate, they weren't afraid to try new things. And because the entire buffet was included in the price, they could try as many new dishes as they wanted. The result has been that they developed an avid appreciation for Chinese food.

One of my daughter's favorite Chinese dishes is lo mein, and so I decided to learn to make it at home. Since the dish relies on lots of noodles and little meat, it's much cheaper to make at home than buy at a restaurant. It's quick and easy, too.

Menu suggestion: Chicken and Broccoli Lo Mein

Pineapple rings

Purchased fortune cookies

---

CHICKEN AND BROCCOLI LO MEIN

Start to finish: 20 minutes

Cook's notes: Frozen broccoli pieces are sometimes called broccoli "cuts." Bottled fresh ginger is available in the produce section of larger supermarkets and is often called crushed, ground, minced or chopped, depending on the brand. Two teaspoons of finely minced fresh ginger can be substituted.

8 ounces pasta noodles, such as linguine

2/3 pound boneless skinless chicken breast halves, fresh or frozen

1 tablespoon peanut oil or other vegetable oil

1 large onion (for about 1 cup chopped)

1 cup already sliced fresh button mushrooms

1 (16-ounce) bag frozen broccoli pieces, (see Cook's notes)

1 tablespoon bottled minced garlic

2 teaspoons bottled fresh ginger, (see Cook's notes)

3 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon ketchup

1 teaspoon Asian (dark) sesame oil

1. Bring 2 1/2 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil in a covered 4 1/2-quart or larger pot. When the water reaches a rapid boil, add the pasta and cook until just tender, according to the package directions.