If you look at the trail map on the sign in the campground, you'll notice one trail taking off for Sullivans Canyon, heading out from the recreation area right across the river. Well, there's no bridge on that trail, so if you attempted to make that hike earlier this spring, you'd have had to swim the river. In April and May the water may be lower (although it wasn't last weekend, because of the rain). Anyway, when the days are warmer you may feel more like making the wade, or taking a tube into the gorge.

Most people are interested in hiking Sullivans Canyon, Boyd said. The Mountain Sheep Canyon hike is one of Boyd's favorites, especially in spring, when you can see butterflies and blooming cactus. He also recommends the 12-mile course up Black Rock Mountain. "It's rough," he said. Lots of chaparral. Some folks use horses to make the trek. Boyd likes the route because it takes you from the low desert into the pine trees.

In the winter, retired folks find the campground appealing, Boyd said. But spring is the prime tourist time. If you want to explore the area with a ranger, there are weekly programs every Monday evening this time of year.

On April 26, there's a lecture on "Venomous Critters of the Southwest"; on May 3, a "Follow the Spring Flowers" field trip; on May 10, a Dutch oven dinner with blue grass and country music; on May 17, "Along the Virgin River," with cowboy poetry. Call for times and details (435-688-3246).

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If you go

What: Virgin River Recreation Area

Where: 20 miles southwest of St. George. Take exit 18 on I-15.

How much: Campsites are $6 a night; half off for Golden Age or Golden Access holders. Many are pull-through sites.

Reservations: Only taken for three group campsites.

Phone: 435-688-3200

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E-mail: susan@desnews.com