James Gillmor said the company's "natural" requirements are similar to the criteria for raising organic meat, but the couple chose not to go to the extra expense of trying to become USDA-certified as organic. The term "natural" on a food label generally means it has no artificial flavors, colors or preservatives.

They began going to the back doors of restaurants, a bag of meat in hand. The timing was right, since "natural" and "local" are current buzzwords in fine dining.

"The consumer is changing, too," said Linda Gillmor. "We sell at the Pioneer Park Farmer's Market and talk to a lot of people who want to know where their food is coming from."

They now sell an average of 40 lambs a week. But it's a tough sell in some farming communities like Heber, where people who like lamb raise their own, said Linda Gillmor. When they dine out, they prefer to order something they can't get at home.

"I wish I could sell more of their lamb, I personally think it's the best-tasting lamb on the planet, but the local dining population in Heber doesn't like lamb," said Barbara Hill, owner of Snake Creek Grill in Heber. "I run it usually on Sunday when I get out-of-state people and more of the Park City crowd."

James Gillmor says he's convinced that Utah grows the best lamb in the world because of the climate, topography and variety of feed. Niman Ranch, a California meat producer that raises its animals without antibiotics or hormones, gets some of its lamb from three different Utah ranches — Pine Valley Sheep Ranch in Hyrum, Clark Willis of Logan and Goring's Ranch in Deweyville.

If you haven't cooked lamb before, the Gillmors have this advice: Don't cover the leg of lamb when you roast it. Uncovered, the fat becomes seared and crispy on the outside. Use a meat thermometer, because if you overcook the meat it becomes more dry and tough.

Although many youths aren't familiar with lamb, that may be changing. Several teams of students in a state high school culinary competition last month chose lamb as an entree. The Park City High School team took third place with its Slope-Style Lamb Chops. "We spiced it with a marinade of mint and lemon zest and a little sugar," said student Nick Siemon. "Cook them slow in olive oil, and don't burn it."

Dave Jones of Log Haven says the biggest secret is to trim off as much of the fat as possible before cooking.

First-time lamb cooks can also borrow ideas from global cuisines: In Greece, it's spiced with oregano. In the Middle East, ground lamb is stuffed into eggplant or grape leaves. In Iran, lamb is marinated and grilled on skewers. North African cooks braise lamb shoulder with vegetables and couscous. In India, it's curried. There's also Irish lamb stew and shepherd's pie from England.

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MORGAN VALLEY LEG OF LAMB