Another bond that Castle Ross shares with the abbey is that it, too, was overrun by Cromwell's army; the last major stronghold to yield to the enemy. Built in 1340 and now restored, the castle is a fine example of early Norman architecture. Its five floors, reached by "stumbling stairs," purposely uneven to make it difficult for invaders to climb, provide a dramatic window into medieval life. And you can't help but admire those who lived in what we would now consider such a primitive way.

If such places evoke appreciation for the past, present-day Killarney calls forth equal measures of delight. With brightly colored shops, singing pubs and jaunting carts, the town has an almost fairy tale feel to it.

Founded by the church in the 5th or 6th century, Killarney did not become a "house settlement" until about 1500. But ever since Queen Victoria came to town, it has become a tourist mecca, known for its friendly people as well as its sights.

One way to see some of those sites is by jaunting cart. Because motorized vehicles are not allowed in many parts of the national park, these horse-drawn carts are a good way to get around. They also can be hired to take you about the town.

Killarney is noted for St. Mary's Cathedral, with stained-glass windows that tell of Irish saints, and for the pubs where local musicians play traditional music and visitors are often invited to sing along.

But even more than its history and its charm, Killarney is famous for its awe-inspiring scenery.

Sitting at the head of the Iveragh peninsula, Killarney itself is surrounded by lakes and mountains, including MacGillicuddy's Reeks, the largest mountain chain in Ireland. These give way to the rugged coastline of the peninsula.

At some point in the past, the 110-mile loop around the peninsula became known as the Ring of Kerry; it makes for a popular and pleasurable day's outing.

In addition to the dramatic coastal scenery it provides, the Ring passes through a variety of small towns, each one with its own particular claim to fame. Killorglin, for example, is home of the annual Puck Fair, where each August, a mountain goat is crowned king. Cahersiveen is birthplace of Irish patriot Daniel O'Connell; Ballinskelligs still has a Gaelic-speaking population. Waterville honors one of its prominent visitors — Charlie Chaplin — with a statue. Sneem is often the winner of Ireland's National Tidy Towns Competition.

Coming back around toward Killarney, there's Moll's Gap, which offers panoramic views of the Owenreagh Valley as well as the Reeks. (It's named for a woman who used to offer homemade spirits to weary travelers.) And the Ladies' View, overlooking the lakes of Killarney, is named for Queen Victoria's Ladies-in-Waiting, who journeyed to this spot.

It's as good a place as any to ponder the words of poet Alfred Austin, who visited Killarney in 1900 and wrote of the area: "If mountain, wood and water harmoniously blent constitute the most perfect and adequate loveliness that nature presents, it surely must be owned, that it has, all the world over, no superior."

It makes you feel warm and fuzzy just to be there.

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E-mail: carma@desnews.com