Killarney — Where visitors' eyes are smiling

KILLARNEY, Ireland — Pity the poor Herbert family of Muckross House, Killarney, County Kerry, Ireland.

In 1861 they were singled out for an auspicious event: a visit from the Queen of England. They received word of the honor in 1855, so they had ample time to prepare. This would be only the third time Victoria had come to Ireland, and the first time for a stop in County Kerry.

The Herberts had obtained lands after their support of Queen Elizabeth I during the Desmond Revolution in 1586, and a fortune largely because of copper mining in the mid-to-late 1700s. Henry Arthur and Mary Herbert had built their fine, 65-room Muckross House in 1843 and were among the society's high echelon in Kerry. Thus they were a natural choice to be so recognized by the queen.

For six years, they made extensive — and expensive — preparations for The Visit. As the official guidebook to the house notes, "these included not only the modification and decoration of Muckross House, but are also said to have included the purchasing of tapestries, mirrors, silverware, a complete set of music instruments, specially commissioned linen, china and servants uniforms. The curtains, which still hang in the Dining Room, were specially woven, probably in Paris, for the occasion. Outside, paths were opened up within the demesne and seats erected at viewing points. The gardeners were instructed to concentrate on planting late summer flowering shrubs and flowers, while a new driveway leading to the House was also built for the occasion."

In late August of 1861, the Queen came, stayed two nights and went on her way. In the back of the Herberts' minds, there probably was the hope that she would be so impressed with their hospitality she would confer upon them a title of some sort. This would offer immense prestige — and also untold financial benefit.

Alas for them, however, before year's end Victoria's beloved Prince Albert died — and titles for families in Ireland were the furthest thing from her mind.

The Herberts never sufficiently recovered from their financial outlay for The Visit. Henry's health began to decline, and he died in 1866. In 1899, Muckross House passed from the hands of the Herberts to first a Scottish lord and then a California businessman, who gave it to his daughter as a wedding present. In 1932, the Vincents donated the house to Ireland, and it became the center of the country's first national park.

But if pity for the Herberts is the first emotion you feel upon visiting Muckross House, you can't help but also feel gratitude to the Vincents for preserving the grand structure and proffering it to the public.