Both women believe rising gasoline prices and a rugged economy are probably as much to blame as the perception of not enough water to make Lake Powell worth a visit.

Giant water bank

Doug Hendrix, public affairs specialist with the Bureau of Reclamation, said the lake's surface now sits an elevation of 3,603 feet. That's 97 feet short of "full pool," and experts expect the lake to fall almost another 5 feet by January 2004, to an even 3,600 feet, before there's any hope of an increase in water levels.

Still, all water demands have been met this year, because Lake Powell is a giant savings bank, with a five-year water supply for such droughts. The reservoir still contains 12.2 million acre-feet of water — and the lake is 400 feet deep in the main channel.

Construction of Glen Canyon Dam began in 1956 and was completed by 1962. Lake Powell's level hasn't been this low since 1963, when the reservoir was beginning to back up for the first time behind the then-new dam.

But dry times are inevitably followed by wet times in the West.

"We're hoping we get above-average precipitation next year," Hendrix said.

Obergh said that in her 30 years at the lake, she's never seen it so low. However, it is still a phenomenal sight to see, she said.

"It's a gorgeous lake. People continue to come — though some aren't as happy with low water."

What is/what was

Because of receding and ever-changing shorelines, some boat ramps have been closed or relocated. But fishermen, water-skiers and sightseers alike are still finding they can get into the water.

Lake Powell has an estimated 1,960 miles of shore — and some long-unseen formations and historic spots are rising as the lake's level lowers.

Staveley said her personal favorite is the recent uncovering of the Klondike Bar, between Wahweap and Dangling Rope marinas, which features old steps carved in the rock by miners. She also said the Hite area near the north end of the elongated lake is fascinating because it's "mudded-in." There's no lake access there, with such low water — but that makes it all the more intriguing, Staveley said.

Photographers are also finding much to see.

Seney said October is one of the best months for photography along Lake Powell because the lower autumn sun creates more shadows.

He discounts talking of draining the lake and "bringing back" Glen Canyon.

"You can't ever make it the way it was," he said. "There's still a lot of lake here. We've just made the cliffs higher now."

The Glen Canyon Institute's Peterson, though, sees positive signs that the pre-reservoir canyon can indeed be revitalized.

Desert varnish, the dark tapestry-like "stains" from storm water and minerals that streak many red-rock cliffs, will likely remove all signs of the prominent bathtub ring now visible high on the walls of Glen Canyon within 30 years, if steadily exposed to air, he said.

And flash floods, he and others believe, will ultimately flush all sediment and trash from canyons — if the dam is removed.

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E-mail: lynn@desnews.com