Sage pesto on grilled tuna and sage butter on seared swordfish are both seductive. For more delicate fish, as in broiled red snapper fillets coated with a crust of minced fresh sage, mushrooms and bread crumbs, the herb imparts just enough flavor and texture to make the dish intriguing.

In most recipes where sage is called for, any edible variety works, says David Turk, the owner of Indiana Market & Catering in Manhattan. However, "pineapple sage is especially appealing for a salad of sliced fennel, red onion and oranges because of its uniquely fruity character," he says. "Sage also responds favorably to being paired with some acidity."

One thing sage doesn't like is a lot of competition from other herbs. Mix it with citrus flavors, mushrooms, cheese or a pantry-full of other ingredients, but forget supporting actors like thyme or rosemary.

In spite of its increased visibility, sage is no Johnny-come-lately. Batter-dipped sage leaves were served in early Roman times, typically as a digestive after a meal. Ancient Egyptians used the herb to promote fertility, while all manner of restorative properties have been ascribed to sage tea over the ages. A recent study quoted by the BBC says it promotes a good memory.

Ali Barker, executive chef of the Bistro in St. Joseph, Mich. (formerly chef of New York City's Union Square Cafe), prepares a delicately herbaceous ice cream that is perfectly balanced with white chocolate swirled with a fresh berry and balsamic vinegar coulis. Showered with a fine julienne of fresh sage before serving, the appearance is as dramatic as it tastes.

Sage's Latin name, salvia, translates as savior or healer. With such a moniker, it's a good friend to any cook.

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ORANGE, FENNEL AND SAGE SALAD

2 heads of fennel, cored and thinly sliced

1 red onion, julienned

3 navel oranges

1 bunch (1 ounce) fresh sage plus fresh sage leaves, to garnish

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Arugula leaves, optional

Combine fennel and onion in a bowl. Peel oranges, cut them in half lengthwise and then slice into semicircles. Cut the bunch of sage into chiffonade.

Toss all ingredients gently with the oil and vinegar, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand at least 1 hour before serving. Garnish with additional sage. Serve on arugula leaves, if desired. Serves 6.

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ROASTED CHICKEN WITH CHILI-SAGE GLAZE

Two 3-pound chickens, cut in half lengthwise

8 fresh sage leaves, plus 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

Salt and pepper to taste

1 1/2 cups dry white wine (or chicken broth)